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The fish and rice are first mixed with soy sauce and wasabi, and later with pickled vegetables.

When most of the mixture has been eaten, dashi broth is poured over the remaining third, which is consumed as a soup.

Chirashi-don combines the simple elegance of fresh raw fish with the laid-back informality of donburi, the quotidian rice bowl.Served cold as zaru-soba, or in a hot bath of dashi broth, their mildly nutty flavor and firm-to-the-bite texture are addictive.Matsugen (Sendaizaka Oak Hills 1F, Azabu Juban 3-11-12, Minato-ku; 81 (0)3 3457 5690) offers expertly prepared, traditional te-uchi soba in a stylish modern setting.The Japanese politely refer to horsemeat as sakuraniku, or cherry blossom meat, because of its bright pink color.Its most popular incarnation is basashi, paper-thin slices of raw horsemeat dipped in soy sauce and grated ginger, frequently served at izakayas.

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